Welcome to Fez, Morocco! A new stage for me in this country I already know very well. After Rabat, Tangier and Marrakech, I’m putting down my bags for a long weekend in and around Fez.
On the agenda for this long weekend in Fez: a visit to the medina, souks, delicious local dishes and a tour of the region, including the towns of Meknes, Moulay Idriss and the Roman city of Volubilis.
What to see and do in Fez ? visit fez
- Visit the medina
- Take a sensory stroll around the tanneries
- Visit the Medersa Attarine
- Admire the Karakouine Mosque
- Take a day trip to Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss
- Get lost in the narrow streets
How to get to Fez ? visit fez
By plane! The most convenient way from France. Although flights are not as frequent as they were before 2020, many cities are served by low-cost airlines. From Paris, Royal Air Maroc and Transavia operate flights between Orly and Fez. The lowest return fares are between €160 and €200. There is a cheapest Flights also from Paris Beauvais and Fez between €20 and 100€ with Ryanair.
Where to Eat in Fez ? visit fez
Culture Box: This small restaurant with a “modern” concept offers typical dishes, but not just that! For 75DR enjoy a delicious vegetable couscous, the best I’ve had all week!
Fondouk Bazaar: You’d think this place would be ultra-touristy, but not really. At Fondouk Bazaar, you can dine on delicious mezze inspired by Moroccan and Lebanese cuisine, either on the well-decorated patio or on the rooftop. Everything was very, very good, and the prices ultra-correct for this somewhat conceptual restaurant.
The Ruined Garden: A new concept in the heart of the medina! A restaurant perhaps a little more expensive than elsewhere, but the place is really nice.
Where to Stay in Fez ? visit fez
There aren’t as many hotels in Fez as in Marrakech, which is why I chose a riad in the heart of the Medina. As already mentioned, there are several disadvantages to choosing a riad: sometimes lost in the narrow streets of the medina, maintenance is often shaky, and it’s generally very poorly soundproofed: you’ll often hear the calls to prayer as early as 5am.
However, sleeping in a riad is a gentler, more traditional experience. For this trip, I hadn’t really chosen the riad myself, but I stayed at Riad Fez Mahal. Its positive point is its location, not too far from the entrance to the medina, and its roof terrace with a view over the whole city. It’s a shame, though, because the bathrooms are very poorly maintained, so I won’t be going back, but on the whole it’s still decent.
Fez, Visit the Medina
The Chouara Tannery
The Chouara Tannery is a must-see in Fez! It’s almost the only reason to visit this UNESCO World Heritage city. After strolling through the medina, the strong smells of the tannery will guide you to it.
To get the best view, you’ll need to climb onto one of the terraces of one of the many leather stores that have sprung up around the Tannerie Chouara.
As usual, the sellers can be quite insistent. Unfortunately, I didn’t write down the names of the stalls that offered the best views of the tannery. But if you type “Dar Dbagh” into Google Maps, it will give you the location of the one I preferred. (Just before the stairs, on the right, when you’re heading north on Rue Chouara).
There’s a lot of feedback about having to pay to enter these terraces. We weren’t asked for anything (for once) on the first terrace, and on the second, a gentleman insisted on telling us the history of the tannery, so we left him a few dirhams. By the way, I wouldn’t recommend the terrace you can see opposite the one where I took my photos, as the salesmen there are very, very, very insistent.
Leather has been made here for centuries. The method has hardly changed, and the working conditions are just as tough as ever. It’s a truly unique place, where you can observe the hard work of the tanners. Watch out for the stench!
Medersa Attarine
Located in the heart of the medina, the Medersa Attarine is a former Koranic school now open to the public. It features an inner courtyard and marble fountain.
Of particular interest is the upper part, where you can discover the different rooms of the students who lived in the Medersa before it was closed at the beginning of the 20th century.
If you have to see only one medersa in Fez, this is clearly the one to visit! We also visited the Médersa Bou Inania, for the same price, and you only have one interior courtyard to admire.
The Karaouiyne Mosque
The Karaouiyne Mosque is closed to non-Muslims, but you can still admire its central patio and golden door from the outside, and it’s clearly worth the detour!
The light coming into the courtyard is just incredible! I’d advise you to avoid prayer times to get there and catch a glimpse.
The Gates and Squares of Fez
The Blue Gate: Bab Boujloud
The mythical gateway to the medina, the Porte Bleue is the pride of its inhabitants. You can stand in front of it without realizing it, since the inside is made of green mosaic, while the outside is blue.
La Place et la Porte Rcif
This door is a little less well known, but in my opinion is the prettiest in Fez. I’ve never been there, but it reminds me of Ouzbeck architecture. It opens onto the Place Rcif, with a totally different atmosphere from that of the Porte Bleue.
Bab Mahrouk Gate and Square
The Bab Mahrouk Gate is totally different from the Blue Gate and Rcif Gate.
It reminds me of the ones in Marrakech, and gives it a real oriental charm. Admire it from the main square, with the minaret in the background, the view is superb!
Place Seffarine
This small square in the heart of the medina is full of charm. It’s been the place to be for copper workers for centuries.
Here you’ll find a number of stalls showcasing local copper craftsmanship. The square is built around the ancient Karaouiyne library (mosque) and the baths.
The Royal Palace and the Jewish Quarter (Mellah)
This is the southern part of the medina. The Palais Royal, one of the 7 residences of the King of Morocco, is not usually inhabited. However, it’s well worth the detour to admire the work done around the palace gates.
As is often the case, the Palais Royal is bordered by the Jewish quarter (Mellah). We’ve been advised to visit this district on several occasions, but it’s without much conviction that we crossed it.
But let yourself be drawn to Rue Bou Ksissat, the most architecturally interesting street in the district.
Further information: A day trip to Meknes,
Volubilis and Moulay Idriss Zerhoun.
I found that Fez was a very quick place to visit, so I’d recommend no more than two days in the city. We often visit Fez and Meknes because of their proximity! And that’s exactly what we did. Read the full article here.
I suggest a one-day itinerary to visit the area around Fez. Start your day by heading for the Sidi Chahed Dam, to admire this lake lost in the middle of Morocco’s arid mountains. Then continue on to Volubilis: this ancient Roman city is now a renowned and well-preserved archaeological site.
In the distance, you can see the mythical city of Moulay Idriss. A major pilgrimage site, this city is sheltered from tourism, with two terraces from which to admire this exceptional city. Finally, end your day in Meknes, 35 minutes away, with a stopover in Morocco’s fourth imperial city, notably to discover the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss.
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